Homage to Obama

Teresa | Traditions | Tuesday, January 20th, 2009

My Obama caganer, a gift from the Yeguas girls

The Catalans paid special homage to Obama this year at Christmas by creating one of their traditional nativity figurines, the caganer, in his image.  I’m assured by the friends who sent me this one that it is intended entirely as an honor.  The caganer — that man who’s gotta go just as events unfold at the nativity scene — is , after all, a beloved character in Catalonia.  And since he’s meant to remind us of our humble humanity, I figure Obama would be flattered.

Txotx! Breaking Out the Basque Cider

Teresa | Artisanal Foods,Food Festivals | Wednesday, January 14th, 2009

Txotx ritual from the Sidreria Petritegi website

Let the txotx season begin!  Today is the day they tap the ’08 harvest kupelas in the Basque Country.  Astigarraga, just outside Donostia, is, of course, the place to be.

2008 Apple harvest at Sidreria Petritegi

More specifically, the place to be is probably Sidrería Petritegi.  That’s where, this year, after the Mayoral speechifying whereupon the virtues of the most prodigious (10 Million kilo) and most aromatic apple harvest in 30 years will be extolled, and after the apple tree planting (if you want the bounty, give back to the land) is done, at 1:45pm, the txotx season officially opens with a shout of “Gure Sagardo Berria .” That’s so many daunting Basque words for:  we’re talkin’ cider here, folks, the hard stuff, come and get it — fresh and fruity and flowing from kegs all over town. (more…)

My Best Meal in Barcelona in 2008

Teresa | Restaurants & Other Food Finds | Wednesday, January 7th, 2009

Even before La Crisis took hold, the smart chefs in Barcelona detected a growing fancy food fatigue in this trend-crazed city.  Several of them set out to focus on toning down the tricks,  emphasizing top-quality ingredients over knock-out design, and keeping prices within reach.  Their “bistronomics” — economical bistros — are one of the best things to happen to good eating in Barcelona in a long time.   (Lisa Abend wrote about the movement in the New York Times last July).

Santi and Fidel in their tiny kitchen at Embat, Fall 2008

My best meal in Barcelona in 2008 was at one of these wise little places, Embat, where chef-owners Santi Rebés and Fidel Puig are doing their own fine thing with flavor lessons well-learned in the kitchen at Espai Sucre where they cooked before. (more…)